quiet with the philosopher

December 2, 2009

After stopping in at the Jabaliya/Dawwar Zimmo Red Crescent office yesterday, to catch up with some of the bravest people I know –the medics– I went by Ibrahim’s Gaza War cemetary.

Run  the Commonwealth War Graves Commission, the cemetary grounds have been kept for over five decades by Ibrahim, and now by his sons.

My reason for stopping by yesterday was to gather some information on gravestones for someone outside of Gaza.  But actually,  I just like the place, particularly Ibrahim. He’s a mixed bag: a grandfather, a philosopher, a host –100% Palestinian–, enthusiastic like a child, a teacher…

From the first visit, Ibrahim has extended an open welcome to visit the cemetary, which might seem a strange past-time but in a Strip deprived of life in so many respects, the cemetary with its flowers, shrubbery and trees is a haven of tranquility.

Upon stepping into the cemetary, the scent of mowed grass overwhelms, followed later on by the perfumes of different flowers and growths.

One of his grandson’s is pushing a mower, but when he sees me, he immediately waves me to the back, where the retired groundsman’s house is.

He comes out from behind those gorgeous stone walls, covered with vines and flowering plants, apologizing for his sleepy appearance.

“It’s a holiday today,” he says. “‘Eid,” surprising me: I’d thought ‘Eid ended on Monday.  He explains that ‘Eid al Adha, the larger holiday, lasted up to 5 days.

“Anyway, I’m old and retired, you know.  My son takes care of things now.  But I still oversee things.  52 years I worked here.”

We walk through a gate, behind the walls, and see some of his many grandsons at work, potting plants for seedlings.

The beginnings of the cemetary’s varied flowers are sprouting in small pots.

Back in the grounds, we pass plants I recognize but can never name.  Ibrahim knows them all, and later gives me a stack of magazines and books on horticulture, to broaden my knowledge.

Remembering my original reason in coming here, I ask about the damaged gravestones.  “We don’t actually have a record of which were damaged, but all of those broken during the Israeli war on Gaza have been replaced.”

Again, it is amazing what strings and international pressure can accomplish: this cemetery has gleaming new white gravestones, and the actual damage done here was trifling in comparison to the ordinary cemetaries for Palestinians.  Those graveyards were, throughout Gaza, targeted, shelled, and bulldozed.  Just weeks earlier, I’d re-visited a Jabaliya cemetary, and finally seen the eastern cemetary, roughly 1 km from the border with Israel: there, Israeli bulldozers ate the walls surrounding a vast graveyard, mowed down gravestones, and destroyed a cistern on the grounds.  Those gravestones remain toppled, fractured, desecrated, and hold no promise of being restored any time soon, along with the thousands of destroyed homes: cement, precious cement, is still banned from ravaged Gaza.

“I like to keep the place peaceful, for those at rest here and those who visit.”

He speaks again of the different soldiers buried here –christian, muslim, hindu, jewish –saying they’re all equally at rest.

“Why we humans spend so much time making wars, I don’t know,” he frowns. “Especially when there is so much illness and poverty in the world.”

We walk towards the back of the cemetary again.

“You can come here any time,” he says, telling me what I already know. “You are like my daughter now, you don’t need to worry.”  Not that I ever had, except maybe wondering if I was taking up too much of his time.

During Ramadan, he’d insisted on bringing water and juice during the afternoon’s intense heat, although he was still fasting. On another visit, he’d repeated the gesture, this time showing me how to drive his maintenance golf-cart vehicle.

“Stay here,” he tells me, brings a chair, “read if you want.”  After a morning of interviewing, I like the thought.

At this point he re-appears, first with a stack of gardening magazines, then with a tray: cold water and sweet tea.

“They’re old,” he apologizes for the magazines. “But we can’t get anything newer.”  Although 2 years old, the magazines are as pristine as his cemetary grounds.

Minutes later, some of his grandsons and a girl of maybe 7 years come out from behind the wall and sprawl on the grass, breaking from their potting.

Baraa, the girl, has them rolling with laughter at her youthful antics.  After a bit, and much prodding, she ventures over and blurts a “whats-your-name?” at me before running off.

They harvest some oranges from a tree on the grounds, and Baraa soon appears at my side with a peeled and quartered orange.

Ibrahim re-appears suddenly, and feigns gruffness as he scolds the boys to get back inside.  But I’m pretty sure his eyes are twinkling. Pulling Baraa to his side, he brags about her, like any father or grandfather would.

“She’s very clever, you know. She’s good on computers.  All my kids and their children are.  I taught them,” he boasts, beaming.

I spend the rest of the afternoon photographing and enjoying the quiet.

Later, Ibrahim returns with cups of coffee for us all.

He settles down and shares some of his life experiences and philosophies, ending finally with an apology for speaking too much.

But no, he hasn’t spoken enough, he’s lived a lot and has much to share.  A book’s worth.


decor

November 29, 2009

*’Eid decorations on Nasser street, the long-torn-up street serving a number of Gaza’s hospitals and clinics. Only now, after over one year (or more), small sections of it are slowly being repaved, using old interlocking blocks rather than pavement, building materials long-banned by the Israeli occupation authorities, despite the great need after Israel’s winter massacre of Gaza.

*the sad, torn-up street somehow mirrors the feelings this ‘Eid


‘Eid: beautiful, impossible

November 27, 2009

I wake in the early hours of the morning, as the rush of Eid begins: prayers call out from mosques around Gaza, Palestine. post continues


one year later, young fisherman still trying to heal

November 26, 2009

Just as his leg was healing from a gaping bullet wound in his calf, Mohammed Musleh broke it, setting his healing back. Although the re-break happened in April, now in November his leg is still in metal braces.

Musleh was initially wounded early in the morning of 5 October 2008 when Israeli soldiers shot at him from a distance of 100 metres. post continues


the young bird keeper

November 24, 2009

It was a lovely story, that of a boy who caught birds in order to protect them.

He lives, the boy, but his hopes died in the massacre Israeli authorities and soldiers commited in Gaza last winter.

A friend, Abed, told me the story, as we discussed one of the latest victims of Israeli soldiers’ shooting in Gaza’s border regions with Israel. This one occurred near the northern border on the morning of 15 November. Abed, filming his young bird-catcher friend, saw the bloodied Amjad Hassanain, 27, being carried away by other bird-catchers. post continues


moving on, until the next massacre

November 23, 2009

Three years after the murder of seventeen from the Athemna family –among them fourteen women and children, including an infant –and one from the Kaferna family, the pain has little receded for the Athamnah family survivors.

When Desmond Tutu visited the region a year and a half after the attack [coming from Rafah after being prevented entry by Israeli authorities], he aptly described the 8 November 2006 Israeli shelling of the family sleeping in their homes as a ‘massacre’ (one of many, many…seemingly endless Israeli massacres of Palestine). post continues


you mean Gaza isn’t being rebuilt?

November 22, 2009

In East Beit Hanoun yesterday, still roughly 2 km from the eastern border with Israel, we are surveying the destruction of water wells and cisterns, along with their motors  –noting that new motors or parts are not available in Gaza, and that the rubble those wells within 1km of the border to Israel cannot be cleared due to a very real fear of Israeli shooting. post continues


lost livelihoods

November 21, 2009

East of Gaza city, on some of Gaza’s most fertile land, little to nothing is growing, and what had grown has been repeatedly mowed down over the years by Israeli military bulldozers and tanks.

I am re-visiting the region to record farmers’ words on a vital issue: water.  Their wells and cisterns have also been bulldozed, pumps and motors destroyed.  In some areas there is a complete lack of water; in another region east of Beit Hanoun there’s just one water source. post continues


where is the buffer zone?

November 19, 2009

DSC00435

published

At 8:30 on November 15, a number of young men went as usual to the land near Gaza’s northern border with Israel, intending to catch birds. Amjad Hassanain, 27, was among the bird-catchers hunting near the border fence when Israeli soldiers began shooting. post continues


defunding children

November 19, 2009

In a Rafah-based grassroots community organization serving children, women and impoverished families, the consequences of the violent siege on Gaza, imposed shortly after Hamas was elected in early 2006, can be seen in the cracked furniture, shabby toys, tattered books, near-empty rooms, and small number of children participating in after-school homework sessions.

Najwa, the centre’s director, explains how prior to the siege, the centre not only provided extra-curricular school support and development for children, but also ran summer courses and games for hundreds of Rafah’s poorest, most oppressed youths. post continues